One hour north of New York, there's a mushroom with your name on it.And a 6-foot-4 hobbit named Jeremy McMillan darting about the woods to fetch it for you.McMillan is executive chef of the Relais & Chateaux hotel/yoga studio/restaurant also known as the Bedford Post Inn, in Bedford Hills. On a late-autumn evening, Loot’s plate bore the fruit of his foraging -- not a mushroom, in this case, but a potato. Make that a sunchoke."What is a sunchoke, anyway? No one at our table can figure it out," I ask the chef, not waiting for the answer to devour it."It’s also called a Jerusalem artichoke," McMillan says with a smile. "It's the tuber of a type of sunflower, similar to but creamier than a potato. And the skin has an amazing truffle flavor. But it's a little briny, which is why I paired it with the monkfish."The monkfish-sunchoke number is delightful. But that’s not what’s striking. It’s McMillan's look-what-I-found wonderment that pervades the dishes, which are almost all wood-fired and displayed on either
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