Daniel Boulud sits in his miniature office cantilevered over the kitchen at his restaurant Daniel. He calls it "the sky box," and we've mounted a steep, narrow metal ladder to get here. A window reveals the cooks at work below, but you can't hear a thing: the room is soundproof.
New York has fine and inexpensive restaurants. It also has plenty that serve large portions of carbohydrate-laden stodge. Here are 50 good places that I tried during an extended visit from London. Most offer value as well as decent food.
Over the past decade, David Chang has built Momofuku from a small ramen bar in Manhattan’s East Village to an eight-restaurant empire with roughly 500 staffers in the U.S., Canada and Australia. Here’s what else he’s done:
The restaurant is below street level: It’s noisy and hot. Sit in the windowless back room and you can feel for the chefs in the heat of the kitchen, especially the older guy, wearing spectacles and hard at work.